Author: Brian Eilber

  • Ender 3 Pro Refresh Upgrade

    With camping season right around the corner (Dating myself as I started this Article Mid-January)  and a new camper this year, it’s time to dust off the 3d printer and prepare it for service. I picked up my Ender 3 Pro shortly after it was released with the improvements from the Ender 3, but it has been idle most of it life. I have accumulated a few small printing projects over the last few months so between that and having it ready to print quick replacement parts for the camper it’s time

    The under itself has spent the last year parked and idol in the corner of my desk in order to get this thing back and online we’re gonna take a look at the current status give a few test prints and identify where we need to start. So the most part my enter is stock any additional parts are very specific such as the glass-heated bed was an upgrade that I purchased and installed the remaining parts are all 3-D printed from the end of itself as improvements the last major upgrade is a 3-D printed direct drive system to enable use a flexible filaments. accomplish this with all printed parts and for the most part worked well there’s also a class bed and a custom hot and shroud other than that the printers stock ender three pro

    The direct drive extrusion worked well and held up for the most part but there are some design flaws for starters extruder motor hands further off the body adding additional twisting torque to the gantry.

    There has never been a shortage of projects involving the ender three and upgrading it it’s essentially what the printer was designed for via printer on the cheaper side and a graduate success to your custom printer or to whatever your goals are with that in mind I wanted to go into this project with a couple ideas of what I wanted to do one of the big things I wanted to do was remove all possible components from the from the printer frame and into detached unit. The idea here is the printer frame would house all the required components to print only…

    • Steppers and Stops, we could eventually remove the end stops on the printer with the right setup and reduce the number of cables in the mix.
    • Camera, for now a USB camera will be mounted on the frame for basic monitoring
    • Hot End, all the bits here have wires that might need some organizing and extending.
    • Print Bed, the heated bed and my glass are not adding any additional challenge are staying put.

     

    As-is MY Ender 3 Pro is a workhorse parts printer for its size.   It is not an great detail printer but it can be one or the other with tuning, which is a great thing for an enthusiast/hobbyist.  I have printed from 28mm figurines (still needing some clean up) all the way up to bed filling garbage cans in mine with only printed upgrades.  Output wise the printer does a great job when tuned to a purpose, for now we are going to remain with a 0.4mm Nozzle on the stock hotend for the remainder of the upgrades.  I predict by the end we will be planning to go for a larger nozzle… 

    I think it is time we talk about why I am even at this point, what do I want to change about the printer to begin with?  Concerns about the printer?  These don’t need to be “problems” but can be potential “improvements”!

    1. Well the number one issue I have is the noise, steppers and fans are horrible sounding.  I can’t stand being in the room while its printing, such noise that makes it impractical to use with any kind of proximity.  
    2. Direct Drive is needs to be solidified.  Printing my own Carriage Base and hot-end cooling to go direct drive greatly improved my printing options, primarily the ability to print flexible filaments.  But it was not without its flaws.  The design had more of the stepper weight off the center of mass and added some additional torque.  Minor visible flexing when making quick movements with the added weight to the X-axis vs conventional Bowden setup.  I was getting “Ghosting” along the X-axis even in lower speeds. Still using the stock belt as well and tension is at its limits
    3. With any setup I want to have network capabilities, no more swapping SD cards thank you!  A web interface to manage the printer, I have used Octoprint in the past and have a Raspberry Pi at my disposal.  Ability to have a web camera for monitoring, bonus points for time lapse.
    4. Another Axis that was showing fatigue and minor ghosting was the Y-axis. I have a Glass bed on my Ender, so there is additional weight there to keep in mind and like the X-axis the belt is stock but still have room in the stock tensioner.  
    5. Z-Axis on the Ender 3 is handled by a single stepper and screw driven.  It connects to the X-Axis on one side and the opposite side rides the frame on rollers.  With the direct drive adding more weight to the carriage, which I plan to keep, the cantilever effect on the X-Axis could be impacted as it gets further from X Home.

    There are some other “nice to haves” that I took off the list for now ( including a full enclosure).   But this is the items I want to address before I have the printer reporting for duty within a budget.

    Time to start some shopping. Right now I have a small list to decide on: A Rigid direct drive setup, silent cooling fans, Dual-Z, steppers and main board.  The board I go with will drive a lot of the design and planning so let us start there. 

    After all my research I decided to go with the Mini v3 paired with my Raspberry Pi 3B+ to run Klipper.  Ordered and will be here in a few weeks, got some time to sort out the remaining bits before it arrives.

    I debated what I wanted to do with direct drive to get a better result.  I still want to swap the Y and Extruder steppers but that can wait until we learn more about Klippper and testing the steps.  There are some official Microswiss and Creality Direct Drive Kits that perform the same role as my previously printed parts.  I wanted to keep budget under control some but the Microswiss kit does have an option with a new hot end.   After reviewing all the options and sticking to the plan of retaining the stock hot end,  I have my eyes set on the Creality DD kit that uses four rollers on an all new carriage.  It has an improved profile to keep the center of mass manageable, but on the down side none of my hotend cooling parts will fit and some work may be needed down the road for an optimal fit.  The stock extruder stepper is still going to be used in this case, swapping it for a lighter extruder is still an option down the road.  

    Printable upgrades are going to be ideal when it comes to how much control we have over what we get.  If the resources are available it could be “cheap” to prototype with.  I can think of a number of things, if they already exist, that I can just print and install to help most of these items.  Help most, but not solve them all sadly.  Our number 1 issue is noise, and parts I can manufacture won’t help much here directly.  Indirect  More on that later…  Printing a tensioner for the x-axis looks promising.  We should probably still get a new belt, but having a better tension control could be worth having.  For now we can draft up this thing https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3319649 and when we are replacing the belt we can install it.  I also wanted to up an enclosure for the electronics of the printer that I could add extension cables to the drivers and stops but everything else is in one box.  Having the power supply included in the enclosure what presenting a challenge to print because of the size.  I decided to go with this thing https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4405355 because it was closest to what I wanted and had a step file I could work with. 

    The next smaller printable would include a X-Belt Tension control for the Ender and the new Creality Direct Drive has a new belt is included.  I would guess its the same size, but I know I already had the stock belt tension fully extended and was still seeing slack in the original belt.  This was really just a nice to have that I justified printing out as a fail safe during the upgrade.  On the small scale I also started printing some camera mounts for my Logitech webcam.  I will probably be printing these parts through out the project when I need to do a quick print.  Not needed to be printed in advance at least!

    Now that I have a footprint figured out I need to decide on how cooling will work.  Looking at other designs I will likely have the top of the power supply open and cooling a large compartment that is the internal space.  A single fan can probably work but how do we keep the sound down too?  Let’s take into account what fans we have stock:

    1. Power Supply Fan – 60mm – 12vdc Fan
    2. Controller Fan – 40mm – 24vdc Fan
    3. Hot-End Fan – 40mm – 24vdc Fan
    4. Part Cooling – 24vdc Blower

    In the enclosure  we have access to several of these fans and I see a few solutions worth testing.  Having the Power Supply Fan run 12vdc means it can be easily replaced with a conventional fan, I will use it in my testing but the stock fan is loud and needs to be removed.  If replaced with a silent fan I imagine this might be enough cooling for the enclosure.  The controller fan I would leave unoccupied, unless we want to step it down to 12 vdc and have more fans.  The hot-end fan will need to be improved as well as part cooling I have seen both in a variety of ways but the clean solution is to get different blowers (4010,5010,4020).  Not sure I am ready to decide much on part cooling beyond trying some cheap aftermarket blowers and printable parts, but for the hot-end fan I will be dropping it to 12vdc in the enclosure and using an Noctua A4x10.  This will be quiet and have plenty of cooling capability.    I am going to get a Noctua A4x20 to test against other enclosure fan options I have on hand already.  I have a handful of LM2596’s that I used in a previous project that would be great for the job of stepping the voltage down for the Hot-End Fan and the Pi.

    With the Mini v3 ordered I will be able to start printing some of the parts we will need and order what pieces I need.  The printer will be busy with enclosure most of the time but as the parts come out I will move the Ender components around.  My original plan was to pair the printer with a Pi and I have a few older ones I can use, there is no debate here that I am going choose the Pi 3B+ currently collecting dust since its last use previously in an iteration of the Coal Stove.   The overall specs and the integrated wifi on this model is more than up to the task and puts it ahead of anything I have.  I can spend some time talking about the Pi side of things but I don’t really have much to cover until much later.  Not that I wasn’t doing anything, its just not much ground to cover.

    Knowing my hardware gave me some options still on how I want to run my web interface and the physical interface between Mainboard and PI.  I anticipate that I will receive the Mainboard with Marlin 2.X, but do I want to use Marlin?  Klipper has come up from time to time working with printers and researching.  Doesn’t seem to impact the decision on physical interface since there are multiple choices.  I went for a simple UART interface from the Pi running Klipper.    Props to BigTreeTech for their firmware being available in Github: https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-SKR-mini-E3/tree/master/firmware/V3.0 

    Getting all of these things going was assumed to take some time but I got the PI steps completed by just following the MainsailOS setup and search for the printer configuration for the Ender 3 (https://github.com/Klipper3d/klipper/blob/master/config/printer-creality-ender3-2018.cfg).  I did configure the wifi before booting and was able to access the Pi with a browser once it picked up DHCP.  Some configuration is available but until I have the board (which is not in the country yet) I can’t do much of value.  I did see the UART wiring for the board, as well as noted it can provide power.  If I went with a Pi Zero then I might consider it an option but I doubt it is rated for more than powering an backlit LCD.  In the final enclosure I will use one of my LM2596’s for stepping the power supply’s 24vdc to 5vdc specifically for the Pi.  For now I am going to provide it external power until I can research and test all the options. 

    With a few draft enclosure parts printed I can move the power supply and mount the Pi into its position as well as the power supply fan.  I can already tell that this fan needs to go.  Any 12vdc Fan will work and I will have to crimp some kind of extension from the power supply so I can test fans more easily.  This is the only 12vdc Fan in the entire configuration so we can test with the Noctuas and other fans I have about unless we want to have another voltage regulation device, and we already plan to use two.  Design wise I am going to test operation of the Pi with a single fan connected to the power supply 12vdc in the enclosure.  I already know the stock power supply fan moves sufficient air for the enclosure but the sound is unbearable even with the solid lid I created.  A silent 60mm replacement might be the quick solution here, but the lid for a 120mm Fan is ready to test as well so just got to crimp them up.

    The 120mm fan performed great in pulling air out of the enclosure but as noisy as the previous test.  Neither had great airflow over the power supply components with a “dummy” Mainboard installed.    Personally I think it looks a bit off with any large fan on top so I will keep my flat top and exhaust heat from the back panel.  Until we have the board installed the stock power supply fan is sufficient, but I might have to redesign it to move heat with the Noctua A4x20 in addition to something I can connect to the Pi or Mainboard.  

    The Mini v3 has arrived and we are ready to set it all up, but before we can install everything I need to strip the stock board, clean up connectors as needed, install a few ferrules for cleaner connection and route the wiring.  For all of this I am following just provided documentation and internet knowledge for clarity,  the install from Ender 3’s is very straight forward but the cable management is a bit of a mess.  We still need to look into extending the cables for steppers and endstops as they are the most limiting at this stage.  Ideally we would be able to know how long we can go and route them cleanly along the frame to one spot.  The hotend wires are not limiting our options yet but if we look at specs on our cables we should look at all of them and determine how far the control box can be from the frame.

    For now we are ready to put our prep work to the test, I had configured the pi and can access mainsail already as well as prepared the klipper firmware on another microSD that is already installed in the Mini.  The UART connection that remains is very straight forward and I simply used a block of my good dupont jumpers to bridge the Mini’s TFT header over to the Pi.  On the Pi side I connected the Data leads and ground but not the +5vdc lead.  I want to do some more testing and I am not in a rush to pull the Pi’s external power just yet.  With the Pi on we power on the enclosure and wait for it to boot before continue down the documentation.

    We now have the Mini running Klipper and the Pi running Mainsail and the two communicating.  Time to break everything in with the last of my old PLA, oh yea I might not have mentioned that the PLA I have been using is what I had left over and sealed away for about 8 months.  With a final cleaning of the heater block and a fresh nozzle installed we have some very solid prints without any changes to our slicing profiles from our previous running state.  From here I will spend the next weeks putting it through its paces using my old filament and some new spools of PLA, PETG, and TPU.

    Before I conclude, there are still some outstanding items to complete.  Internal to the electronics enclosure I need proper mounting stands for the voltage regulation, where needed.  We know we want the Noctua fan on the heat break and have to step 24vdc to 12vdc for that.  I want to explore some options for part cooling with fans I have but could potentially have do this this as well of I go to 12vdc.  Then there is the Pi, coming in at constant 5vdc to  operate.  I will leave it on the power brick until we address the next item….

    The wires are a mess…

    We have to replace/extend a lot of the cables for the ender to have the electronics out of the way.  Right now it is closely tethered to the frame, but out of the way for the most part.

    After I break it all in and have some hours of printing under our belt, I will check back in on where we go from here.

     

  • LiFePO4 cells have arrived!

    The new battery cells that I needed for my future project involving a 48 V system have arrived. A total of 48 lithium iron phosphate cells going to be configured as a16S3P battery. Stay tuned to the post around this project!

  • Land vehicle’s Lack of Rules in DnD5e – Part 4

    I am starting to feel better about my little passion project here.  We wrapped up Part 3 with some stat blocks and now we need to sort out Crew Actions and some of the parts that make up our Caravan.  Direct comparison to the Saltmarsh ships is not something that is in the cards at this scale, but there is a lot to learn and apply at this scale.  Lets start with actions the vehicle can take, when crewed of course.  In our case being crewed is just a matter of a single capable creature at the reigns.  I think the best way to rule is it as: “On its turn, It can’t take these actions if it is not Crewed.”  

    Well I was going to start talking about what actions it can take, but the bigger question is when?  With one crew member it feels logical that is should fall to their initiative.  With some thought on what those actions could be,  all that makes sense is maneuvering actions of a driver.  So lets stick with the idea that the driver takes a vehicle action at the start of their turn and then proceeds with their own action and bonus actions, essentially trading their movement to function as crew for that round.  There should also be a limit to a single action per round.  Just a little CYA in case a “Creative” player finds a way to attempt additional actions.  So lets make an amendment: “At the start of the Crew’s turn, a single vehicle action can be taken for that round.  These actions cannot be taken if it is not Crewed.” 

    Bam

    Ok so let us talk maneuvering actions and starting with the simplest one, the “Move” action.  Glamorous I know…  but its an essential one.  We discussed the movement speed in the last part being directly drawn from the animal that is pulling, but we didn’t talk Range of Motion as it applies to a turning radius.  Do we dive into physics of the pivot point of this four wheeled vehicle or do we have an in game reference?  I had no luck finding one, but we learned that I may not be as thorough in my reading as I could be…  But I was thinking about how cumbersome it would be to take turns moving at full speed.  Then it hit me, perhaps the “Move” action should be handled less as an action, and more like movement.  The direction I was originally going for was to have actions determine the maneuver taken by the driver and the impact it would have on movement speed and direction.  Lets consider the following movements:

    Flat-out:  Move in forward arc (cone) up to the full movement speed

    Turning:  Expand forward arc to 180 degrees, and move up to half of the movement speed.

    Evasive: Move in forward arc (cone) up to half of the movement speed, +4 AC for vehicle and riders

    For the most part this makes sense to me, the thing that will determine the standard turning radius of a vehicle would be the movement arc I mentioned in all 3.  I noted cone for now with the logic of 90 degrees of turning (45 degrees left or right).  To make a harder turn, you have to be going slower.  But I have some thoughts on that as well I need to hash out as well.  Being able to expand that arc to a full 180 degrees makes sense and keeps the meticulous details to a minimum but opens the question, could it make a hard turn in a single space?  Maybe hard turns like this would need some kind of check for the driver to maneuver the horses, or perhaps the vehicle makes a CON or Damage Threshold Save against the strain?  The concept of DT playing a part here makes the most sense, but why not have that paired with Driver “Skill”.  For some reason my mind draws a parallel to drift racing, where a drivers skill could be the deciding factor in a successful maneuver and disaster.  Let us apply that logic here, a Vehicle Handling check.  This should not be locked in to a specific ability score, DM discretion and Player ingenuity.  An intelligent character may quickly analyse the situation and use terrain to their advantage, where as a brutish one may just use athleticism to force the horses to bank.

    Well… Having said that I feel like that brute force method just may cause excessive strain and would, against the intent of having a check first, auto fail and move on to DT.  I don’t like it but I might have to determine what skill really applies here.  I touched on the terrain as well which will play a part as well.  crap.  We are going in circles a bit.  I think that we take skill out of the equation, mostly.  We don’t have values for DT yet but perhaps the best way to approach this is to take Vehicle Proficiency (Land) as a means to “boost” the DT for maneuvers but the drivers proficiency bonus.  Downside here is that we are entering the realm of convolution.  Perhaps its for the best if we just stick to what I laid out above and revisit this when we are ready to polish.

    Lastly the Evasive movement is something I am happy with, representation of defensive driving to make the vehicle (and passenger) harder to hit.  I picture this as still moving full speed with some bobbing and weaving.  Not much else to say about this one, unless we question the AC bonus.  This feels right since the vehicle is still a fairly large target, and this is just generalized.  I plan to dive into the different parts of the vehicle in the next part to figure out the AC, HP and DT of each.  If for example the AC of the main body is 10, this becomes a 14 when being evasive.  Quite the bump.   Let’s also say the AC of the wheels is 14, making this 18 by being evasive is not as dramatic but still significant.  

    I think that gets us to a solid point as far as actions and how they are used.  We may need to expand on this further but let us count this as a victory and move on! 

    See you in the next part!

  • Land vehicle’s Lack of Rules in DnD5e – Part 3

    I think we need to take a step back and really evaluate what research we need to do on this topic.  The thought process behind Part 1 and 2 was that I had a short supply of time to get something that I wouldn’t regret, knowing what the group was looking for.  During the session that followed, the group was debating how they wanted to proceed more than anticipated and ended up looking for a cheaper “Caravan” which I just made some quick assumptions.  With more time until I need to actually have a plan, I can slow down and figure out something more reasonable.  Because of the rush I was in prior I may have overlooks some important information:

    “An animal pulling a carriage, cart, chariot, sled, or wagon can move weight up to five times its base carrying capacity, including the weight of the vehicle. If multiple animals pull the same vehicle, they can add their carrying capacity together”  https://www.dndbeyond.com/sources/phb/equipment#MountsandVehicles

    Well…. how did I miss that!?  We don’t need to worry about the maths here, we just need a simple x5 for their capacity like this:

    Animal Cost Speed Capacity (lb) “Towing” Capacity (lb)
    Camel 50 gp 50 ft. 480 2400
    Donkey or mule 8 gp 40 ft. 420 2100
    Elephant 200 gp 40 ft. 1320 6600
    Horse, draft 50 gp 40 ft. 540 2700
    Horse, riding 75 gp 60 ft. 480 2400
    Mastiff 25 gp 40 ft. 195 975
    Pony 30 gp 40 ft. 225 1125
    Warhorse 400 gp 60 ft. 540 2700

    That was easy, and solves one of our problems.  Now I can spend less time doing the hard math.  I will still need a real world analog for the “Caravan” my players now own and to get an equipment card of sorts to reflect it and the stats I have been drafting.  During our session the group took a look around the “lot” for all the new and used models, and the group Agreed upon the 400gp Bow-Topped Caravan I had there and let them use their three Riding Horses to pull it.  I even incorporated some upgrades which I will touch on later.

    We have real world examples of this type of wagon, but I am on the hunt for historical/period numbers for the weight.   I did find this site where one of the “facts” they called out was the weight of 750kg (1653.47lbs).  Another modern analog was found on this site and calls out a weight of 1300lbs.  Just from looking at images of these I can tell that there is potential gains and losses for modern materials used for the structure in the weight department.  Until I find more accurate data, which I will look for, I am going to stick to the top end of what I have seen rounded up a bit for being lower “tech”: 1800lbs.  I also got a statistic on these as far as maximum capacity of around 4000lbs.  There are varying dimensions I have found so I will look for the closest fit.

    Now we have some data….   Lets lay it out….

    Bow Top Caravan
    Medium Vehicle (16 ft. by 7 ft.)
    Creature Capacity:
    2 crew, 4 passengers
    Dry Weight 1800lbs
    Cargo Capacity: 2200lbs
    Travel Pace: Depends…

    Aside from travel pace, which would depend on the animal pulling, we have some solid facts. The cargo capacity feels a bit off, but I feel like this is a good starting point.  Crew and Passenger weight would use up that weight, not just “cargo”.  Thinking about my player’s situation, having more than enough towing horsepower (ha this won’t get old), I started thinking about ability scores.  The Saltmarsh ships have them, so it would not be a “complete” item without them in my mind.

    This particular vehicle is meant to be light, which would keep STR and CON on the low side but about “average”.  The excess of horsepower could add some fun bonuses to DEX since it can make more drastic turns and maneuvers since the horses are far from encumbered.  Mental note for the next article.  Here is where I ended up:

    STR 12 (+1)
    DEX 10 (0)
    CON 12 (+1)
    INT 0
    WIS 0
    CHA 0

    Feels right, not much science here, just thinking about materials and construction.  One last thing for tonight, Damage and Condition Immunities.  This is an inanimate object so I think we can “cheat” and use the same specs the Saltmarsh ships use.  This leaves us with the following:

    Bow Top Caravan
    Medium Vehicle (16 ft. by 7 ft.)
    Creature Capacity:
    2 crew, 4 passengers
    Dry Weight 1800lbs
    Cargo Capacity: 2200lbs
    Travel Pace: Depends…
       
    STR 12 (+1)
    DEX 10 (0)
    CON 12 (+1)
    INT 0
    WIS 0
    CHA 0
       
    Damage Immunities: poison, psychic
    Condition Immunities:
    blinded, charmed, deafened, exhaustion, frightened, incapacitated, paralyzed, petrified, poisoned, prone, stunned, unconscious

    This is so far feels reasonable for 400gp.  The 100gp Carriage would be close to this, but the Caravan has a few things that set it apart (some not captured yet):
    1. Sleeping space for three (four in tight quarters and no need for personal space).
    2. A stove that can be used for food preparation and warmth (hmmm survival checks?).
    3. Space for a workbench of some kind.
    4. Not directly called out in #1, an actual bed or two, for injured party members to rest.
    5. Secured Cargo space inside a door
    6. Some god damn statistics (although still early Alpha)

    I am sure there is more we can point out, but now I wonder if I made it too cheap?  For now its not much of a concern since the party decided to pay “out the nose” for the fancy hotel/inn in town, but something I should think more about as we move through this series of articles.  Next up we need to take a closer look at each part of the Caravan as well as the Crew Actions that can be taken. 

    See you then!

  • Land vehicle’s Lack of Rules in DnD5e – Part 2

    In my last post on the topic I covered the need to delve into vehicle rules and pointed out the disappointing lack of rules for land vehicles in Dungeons and Dragons: 5th Edition.  I am here back with Part 2 of my quest to make some sane land vehicle rules and options for the games I run. Click here to check out part 1.

    So far the goal remains the same but the RV equivalent of mundane fantasy land vehicles is pretty much confirmed to not exist. That doesn’t mean we are dead in the water, we need to find something that we can use on a different end of the spectrum. My initial thought was to take a look at some other sourcebooks that have vehicle rules, namely Acquisitions Inc. and Ghosts of Saltmarsh. I have taken a good look at the ships in the saltmarsh content before but revisiting it now made a few things click.

    I needed another analog, something above the mark I am trying to hit. This is where the sailing ship comes in. I won’t fully quote rules as written here since there is a lot but let’s call out of key points we did from the carriage, with some “assumptions”:

    Sailing Ship
    Type: Vehicle (Water)
    Cost: 10,000 gp
    Weight: No clue…..

    It is worth noting the price of the ship comes from the equipment list and the rest from Ghosts of Saltmarsh. The question becomes, why were these not merged in dndbeyond? Wizards of the coast tend to have good book keeping as far as uniquely named items being identical, or at least making it obvious if something is different with some change to its name. I have to assume these two things are one and the same and it is more a matter of having a reason to buy Saltmarsh? Not ideal, but logically sound considering the link from the Mounts and Vehicles page links to Saltmarsh.

    Tangent complete, back to the ship…

    Aside from the items above there is clear rules on how the vehicle functions, can be equipped and its passenger/crew capacity. These are all important things to take into consideration. Right now our range, price wise, is 100 – 10,000 gold. Quite a broad range but this might be good for us. Having something that is overkill and underkill gives us a distinct top and bottom end to restrict us to. We also have the keelboat as a reference point once we get some data.  Yesterday when I was wrapping my head around what is the RAW Carriage I called it a wrap once I realize how low it ranked.  But we are going back down that road to get some common parameters, more specifically overlay what we have for the carriage over the specs of the sailing ship one section at a time.

    Lets look at the end result, followed by my path to get there (spoiler alert not conclusive… yet)

     

    So.. we have some numbers here.  I included the Draft Horse as de-facto source of “horsepower”.  Puns aside before we could figure out movement speed we needs some maths.  I got a lot of data from Charleston Cares when I found it yesterday including this handy page.  Yaaaay Physics.  This is a great resource for calculations we need to do.  However there is an important flaw in our application, coefficient of friction is not part of their calculations since they are relying on near zero values.  Lets give a visit to my friend the Engineering Toolbox to get some data.  If we look at the Wood and Clean metal statistics we see a coefficient of 0.2 – 0.6.

    Damn, a range.

    Well we can make assumptions around craftsmanship to get a more refined value here.  Ideally axles would be constructed as efficient as possible, which makes be think its fair to say a value of 0.3 could logically apply here.  Near perfect but not quite.  I considered a value of  0.2 but this felt too good for “primitive” technology.  There is also the argument that the construction would involve the best possible materials and raw surface friction would not be the mechanical operation of choice.  All that rambling considered we should lock in at 0.2 and call it the best of the worst. There is another coefficient we need for the wheels on terrain.  So we consult the data and wood wheels on stone is 0.2 – 0.4.

    Damn, another range.

    Well this one I have already had some preconceptions.  But is my madness reaching a point of being a lost cause?  We have a lot of data thanks to Charleston Cares and not a lot of solid answers just guesses.  That page already confirmed another data point we needed to solve, the travel speed of 3 mph.  I am going to have to table my math on this for another day, I have read to many papers on rolling friction than I care for this evening.  Back to CC there is a statistic that rings home, “1.8lbs to a 200lb person”.  This would take a 600 lbs carriage to be 5.4 lbs of strain on the horse?  Sounds too good to be true but lets run with that 9:1000 ratio.  Assuming we have three 200 lb riders we double it to 10.8 lbs.  Then assume a physical cargo capacity on this vehicle as another 600 lbs of cargo (if the cart doesn’t reach a break point under shearing forces) we are at 16.2lbs  as a sustained load, more so for starting load.  

    That feels low…  We may have to solve for proper friction coefficients…

    We need some kind of conclusion on this and I think we focus on travel speed since we are still at “back of napkin equations”.  I mentioned the travel speed of 3 mph referenced, but consider the DND math around the Draft horse: 40 ft. per round equates to 4.54545455 miles per hour.  Essentially the horse would not be impeded by this load, we are not even close to 540 lbs, so there is no need to make any changes to travel speed.  Even if we consider the coefficient applied in the equation at a higher speed, there is no way a carriage loaded to its physical capacity is hindering our faithful steed.  The horse dragging the carriage without wheels is right at its capacity.  Considering a Draft Horse can be “burdened” with a load of 540 lbs I see no need to limit its speed when not burdened and the stats for the draft animal is fine… for now.

    So what did we gain from this, pretty much nothing related to the carriage besides the concept that the carriage would potentially break under load of cargo before be burden the horse.    I am starting to think we need more information to get where we need to be to understand how many horses will be needed to haul a vehicle.  Like I said before, lets put a pin in this until I can make some more concrete calculations.  CC was giving us some useful math, but I feel the numbers don’t add up.  The sailing ship was a bit pointless in this exercise since we are not trying to sort out cost as of yet.  Next Part will not be finished before the next session so no need to find out how we want to size this fantasy RV.   Depending on the results of the session we may shift gears a little bit and enjoy this confusing math nugget.

    See you then!

     

     

     

  • Land vehicle’s Lack of Rules in DnD5e – Part 1

    When my group of players got their first big haul of treasure and were splitting up the funds, I wasn’t surprised they added an additional “share” for a group fund. What caught me, for lack of a better word, unprepared was that the called it the “Wagon Fund”. With the group heading to the nearest town I knew some quick research was needed. In between social encounters and shopping my research brought me to the Carriage.

    The group had a discussion on what they wanted in their potential land vehicle, nothing too surprising:

    Cargo space
    Security
    Room for all four members and their extra creatures
    Shelter at night

    None of these items were outlandish or anything, but the carriage description was not going to make the process easy. Before I jump into a tangent let’s talk about what a Carriage is in dnd5e, Rules as Written: 

    Carriage
    Type: Vehicle (Land)
    Cost: 100 gp
    Weight: 600 lbs

    Aside from some notes on proficiency, that’s it…  Now you can picture my disappointment.  Luckily for me, the party got distracted with a little “domestic” matter among themselves and we wrapped the session before it was resolved.  So I had a week to get a plan.  Initially I did find a lot of homebrew rules that I found interesting, but nothing consistent.  In the interest of having something new and interesting for my players, and the fact I enjoy wrapping my head around these kinds of puzzles, I decided to write my own rules around this.  The first step was going to be consuming as much official content I could to keep it aligned to the rules that do exist.

    So the question is, “Where do I start?”

    The answer really simple and something I found in my initial search, The players handbooks section Mounts and Vehicles.  The text in this content provides some context, but its the tables that have the crunchy numbers we need to evaluate.  The problem that I have with them is that we are still stuck understanding what a Carriage is.  From the rules above, all we know is it weighs 600 lbs.  Trying to get an idea of a real world analog lead me deep into equine sources, but still nothing to tell me what a 600lbs Carriage truly is.  But there was a piece of information that became very relevant, “The average large carriage weight is in the neighborhood of 1800 lbs. However, the wheels and design make the load on the horse lighter.”  I have not gotten to the point where I need to start doing the towing calculations, although this will be something to consider later, but this page provided some useful information and further context.  My idea of a Carriage is way off from what one really is.  My expectation is “Small Living Space” but the reality is “Sitting Room Only”

    Well Shit.

    This is not the right direction, but not the wrong one either.  We accomplished something here, just not what we wanted to.  We have a real world analog of something that is relative to our target vehicle.  We have our Honda Civic as a baseline, we just need to work our way up to more of an RV.  There is still value in having some rules for a Carriage, but not for this week.

    Stay tuned for Part 2, where this experiment continues.